French Kiss: San Antonio bistro Petit Coquin succeeds in its elegant simplicity

Petit Coquin is a small, deceptively simple-looking restaurant with an equally simple-sounding prix fixe menu hiding many complexities in its knowing execution of French classics. — Petit Coquin is a small, deceptively simple-looking restaurant with an equally simple-sounding prix fixe menu hiding many complexities in its realizing execution of French classics. Credit score: Instagram / petit_coquin_sa

French bistro Petit Coquin seats 25 company in its compact, nearly defiantly impartial house. Whenever you make a reservation, and reservations are a should, you’re knowledgeable that the desk is “yours for the night time.”

Understandably, expectations run excessive — in your half that the kitchen will ship, and on the host’s half that you’ll take full benefit, presumably to order extra wine and to linger over the cheese plate.

Choices abound within the in depth and quirky wine record at this South Presa Road newcomer. Its house owners seemingly enjoyment of presenting obscure and little-known bottles. Your meals decisions are far fewer, consisting of simply two choices in every of three classes: First Course, Second Course and To End.

The value, plus tax and tip, is $65 — plus $20 for the non-compulsory nation paté to enhance the bread service. Earlier than we get too far into weeds, sure, it’s value it. Particularly for those who’re a carnivore.

The bread service, a domed petit loaf served in an equally diminutive forged iron frying pan, comes with luxurious, exquisitely spreadable butter — a star in its personal proper.

The crusty bread doesn’t actually need the paté. However you do. Order one for the desk on the very least. The serving appears hewn from a slab of stone amalgam, and it holds collectively fantastically when lower. It additionally tasted like custom, particularly within the firm of a seedy Dijon mustard and a cluster of notably sassy cornichons.

On my go to, we have been solely midway by means of the bread and paté when Course One arrived. The haste appeared unneeded, on condition that few tables have been but occupied, and it additionally appeared to interrupt the pact between kitchen and diner. In every other setting, the course’s early arrival may felt much less intrusive.

Happily, each choices within the class have been distinctive. Within the first, rigorously al-dente beluga lentils in a lightweight French dressing fashioned the bottom for a small slab of sausage and a lacing of aioli. As black as their caviar namesake, these lentils will inform your opinion of the legume from right here on out. To level, they nearly outshone the sausage.

Dish No. 2 was much more of a revelation. Billed as peach and cucumber gazpacho, the velvety soup recalled a extra conventional, and tomato-based, Spanish salmorejo, the place stale bread helps obtain the feel. Given the dearth of anticipated sweetness from the peaches, I might have sworn that tomato nonetheless performed a job right here, however regardless of the alchemy, the chilly concoction stood by itself.

However wait, there’s extra. The soup was topped with a dollop of shredded crab subtly accented with tarragon. Pescatarians might do a double order of this and name it a day. Simply saying.

The remainder of us might anticipate a Second Course of roast pork with summer time squash — served this time after a prolonged wait. At that time, we started to broach difficult territory having to do with menu descriptions. Once I see “roast pork” on a menu, I don’t routinely suppose tenderloin, even though this can be a lower much more in tune with the kitchen ethos than, say, roast shoulder. Tenderloin is straightforward and fast, and until overcooked, it’s foolproof, lending itself to all kinds of rubs and coatings.

Petit Coquin retains it easy, and naturally doesn’t overcook the lower, saving any embellishment for the silky mustard sauce. However for all of its roseate perfection, I nearly most popular the fantastically seared summer time squash alongside.

Searing brings us to my subsequent petty gripe. The opposite listed Second Course choice was described as “seared lamb with eggplant purée and maitake mushroom.” Visions of still-quivering lamb medallions, or noisettes, danced in my head. Unsuitable. The lamb appeared to have been long-braised, pulled and reassembled right into a plank — which could or won’t have been seared. I used to be not satisfied.

Nonetheless, the accompanying eggplant was smoky and sultry, the virtually meaty maitake mushroom — sure, singular on this case — a revelation.

Expectations once more: once you see rice pudding on a menu, what do you suppose? I’ll guess the reply isn’t “thrilling in each style and texture.” And but, thrilling this was. Simply sufficient texture of the rice remained to provide physique, candied pecan bits supplied pops of sweetness and a brown butter crumble supplied depth taste. Signal me up for extra.

The much less opulent cheese plate wasn’t shabby both. It consisted of extra good bread, a nutty cantal, a well mannered washed-rind and brie-like wedge. All of it went completely with a bottle of unusually mild, but nonetheless savory, Cahors steered by our well-versed server. It’s OK to ask for assist.

To forestall disappointment, be happy to ask for menu particulars too.