San Antonio’s Leiah Venezuelan Meals delivers on homey, simple fare that scores massive on taste  

Venezuela’s been within the information quite a bit currently. 

Although our quarter-hour of top-of-the-news consideration span surrounding the ouster of Nicolás Maduro might have already expired, one seemingly consequence is that the Venezuelan diaspora already within the U.S. and elsewhere will solely enhance. 

Unhealthy for the Texas-sized South American nation, however good for us — particularly the place meals is anxious. 

A fast Google search of Venezuelan eating places and meals vans in San Antonio yields no less than 15 outcomes, with the newest, Llaneros Grill, having lately taken over the area till lately occupied by Cascabel in Southtown. Open since 2023, Leiah Venezuelan Meals on Starcrest appeared pretty much as good a spot as any to begin my exploration.

One origin of the title Leiah comes from the Hebrew the place it means “weary” or “delicate” — neither of which describes the meals or the environment at this restaurant. The area itself might charitably be known as “uncomplicated,” with the one colour coming from a TV display, some shelving displaying Venezuelan merchandise on the market and a rack of vibrant soccer jerseys. 

And for its half, the meals might hardly be known as delicate. It’s sturdy, homey and easy — not unhealthy issues in any respect as an order of empanadas confirmed.

Wrapped in a dough of cornmeal and flour, the beneficiant half-moon pockets can be found in eight iterations, all unabashedly fried. Choosing one up together with your fingers might render them a tad greasy — nevertheless it’s price it. 

Pollo mechado is a traditional filling wherein the hen is first cooked in flavored bouillon, then shredded and cooked once more, sometimes with bell peppers, onion, garlic and spices resembling cumin and annatto. The result’s robustly flavored, juicy and is just enhanced by a squeeze or two from considered one of two bottled salsas.

Equally juicy, although otherwise spiced, are the seafood empanadas bursting with chopped shrimp, octopus, squid and mussels. It’s a vibrant combo. The arepa full of black beans and queso paisa, or llanero, delivers precisely what’s anticipated. You’ll be able to hardly ever go mistaken with bean and cheese, and these don’t disappoint.

Maybe much more sometimes Venezuelan — and Colombian — are the arepas. Consisting of huge, gordita-like cut up discs normally constituted of a dried, cornmeal-based combine, these are a mouthful and extra. One is definitely sufficient for a meal; two are an indulgence, particularly following a trio of empanadas. Set free your belt a notch and begin with La Peluda, your first introduction to carne mechada, the beefy equal of the hen above. 

There’s a little bit chew to the savory, shredded carne — simply sufficient to let one know that that is critical stuff. Pliant, shredded cheese performs straight man to the boisterous beef, however there’s nonetheless room to understand the corn-based qualities of the arepa. 

The arepa can be a workforce participant within the exuberantly stuffed Pabellon.

On this baroque concoction, the corn cake is stuffed to the gills with extra carne mechada and cheese, however the meat is joined by black beans and fried, ripe plantain. It’s a taste bomb, and with some effort it may be lower in half to serve two. 

However it’s nothing in comparison with the plate that’s the Patacón.

It’d assist to think about this as a sandwich bracketed not by bread however as an alternative by two, flat and crisp discs of fried, inexperienced plantain. The construct begins with one other disc of boiled ham, which tends to get misplaced within the crowd. Then, in case you go for an non-compulsory mixture of carne and pollo mechada as we did, it will likely be accompanied by fried plantain, shredded cheeses, avocado and a salad of types. No black beans, no less than. The top result’s monumental and totally unimaginable to chop in two with the implements at hand. 

And but, it’s nearly irresistible in case you decide away on the well-sauced inside a bit earlier than trying any sharing. The paper-lined basket might seem like a trainwreck ultimately, however so be it.

Leiah additionally presents its personal Venezuelan model of enhanced perros, or sizzling canine — one of many extra elaborate variations operating $25. It additionally presents equally souped-up hamburguesas, together with the Leiah Burger, which by some means manages to stuff pork chop, bacon, sausage, egg and chips right into a sandwich already sporting hen and beef. It seems like a problem price returning for. 

We did pattern the fruit jugos and might confidently say that the sweet-tart parchita (ardour fruit) gives a pleasing distinction to the menu’s sturdy  flavors, whereas the guanabana, tasting like a mixture of mango and pineapple, is equally interesting.

There is no such thing as a beer on Leiah’s menu, however I’d wager {that a} soccer match that includes Venezuela may draw a boisterous crowd and put that TV to good use. Nothing like perros and partisans.

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