Probably the most dramatic headlines in 2025 had been political.
Fortuitously, there was no scarcity of meals information to maintain us distracted, from restaurant closures to transitions to consequential openings — particularly, as if in some sort of year-end, Oscars-like rush. If we’re taking San Antonio’s culinary temperature, all three classes are necessary.
Closures, some stunning
Closures had been for the same old causes: monetary, private, conceptual, authorized. The largest of them, from an funding and aspirational standpoint, was absolutely Carriqui at Pearl. The expense concerned in shifting and lavishly reconstructing the outdated Liberty Bar will need to have been appreciable, but its meals by no means appeared to catch fireplace. The restaurant was neither distinctive in its Mexican choices nor significantly convincing in its ties to South Texas — not that this essentially mattered to its supposed viewers.
On the different finish of the spectrum, there was Barrio Doggs, a cheeky, low-rider themed sizzling canine joint from San Diego that actually ought to have labored given its near-downtown location, comparatively low overhead and more-than-decent canines. Are we maybe at peak pooch? Newcomer El Chunky, farther down South Presa Road, seems to be hanging on, so one thing else will need to have been in play.
And in between there have been locations reminiscent of Cascabel, an unassuming Southtown restaurant that includes credible, inside Mexican meals. It could merely have run its course. Seemingly nonetheless on an upward curve was Dashi, a continuously inspiring regional Chinese language place by Kristina Zhao, whose enduringly fashionable Sichuan Home exhibits no apparent indicators of misery.
But in addition be aware that the current closing of The Good Sort, one other Southtown outpost that includes natural-leaning meals and an interesting out of doors setting, has paved the way in which for Zhao to maneuver in with a brand new idea: the Ciao & Zen Collective. Its web site is sufficiently imprecise and aspirational to permit for a lot of completely different outcomes.
In one other transition involving the closure of a well-liked location, James Beard-nominated chef Leo Davila shuttered his cozy, artistic Stix and Stone to give attention to a brand new place as head meals honcho on the venerable St. Anthony Lodge. His debut gambit there was the opening of Anacacho Espresso & Cantina in Could. Its artful cocktails and Mex-Asian menu presage a few of what to anticipate at Esencia, the adjoining restaurant changing Rebelle. Within the phrases of the PR pundits, “Esencia … will mirror the culinary spirit of modern-day San Antonio,” assuming foodies are questioning what that’s. Search for a solution in early 2026.
Elevated openings
Maybe the reply is already with us, as evidenced by the abundance of recent eating locations, principally from acquainted faces, which cuts throughout a spectrum of cuisines.
Topping the checklist is a duo from the Emmer & Rye crew that introduced us the Pullman Market and its first restaurant, Fife & Farro, in 2024. The newest to open there, Isidore and Nicosi Dessert Bar, every received a single star in 2025 from the vaunted Michelin Information Texas, and although this worldwide recognition is sweet icing on the cake, the eating places’ impression on town’s culinary make-up as an entire could also be much more necessary.
Isidore, for instance, calls itself “a showcase of the bounty of Texas,” with all produce sourced from throughout the state. This isn’t a brand new declare, and it’s one typically laborious to understand from merely trying on the menu. However mix this with well-honed service, meticulous presentation and a welcoming ambiance, and it’s no surprise even the French are seeing stars.
Nicosi, the brainchild of chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph, is an much more singular expertise. The prix fixe night takes place within the equal of a theatrical black field surrounded by darkish curtaining. Right here, a twenty-seat viewers is organized in a U form round a kitchen-laboratory stage, and the grasp of ceremonies turns into a stand-up raconteur presenting and explaining the night’s choices.
The menu consists of eight dessert programs, 4 “bites” and 4 “mains,” which makes an attempt to cowl the sensory bases: acid, umami, bitter, and candy. Even glazed skewers of Wagyu accompanied by a candied foam handle to suit into the all-dessert format — with just a little flexibility on the a part of the diner.
Small however mighty
It’s this stretching of our culinary intelligence quotient which may be probably the most thrilling side of the 12 months’s openings. And the setting doesn’t need to be extremely capitalized and elaborately conceived in an effort to additional the development.
In distinction to Nicosi’s black field, Petit Coquin is a tiny white field operation.
Taking on the diminutive area vacated by quirkily ingenious Palms Down bar, Petit Coquin is one other creation by prolific restaurateur Chad Carey of the Empty Abdomen Group. (He additionally just lately opened Houston Road noodle bar Kaedama Battleship.)
As with Nicosi, Petit Coquin is prix fixe, however the menu is smaller and extra targeted: two selections every in First Course, Second Course and To End classes. Diners might need to take into account the add-on paté possibility and take a critical take a look at the distinctive wine checklist — primarily French, as is the menu itself. The desk is yours for the night, so put together to settle in.
Even much less involved with elevated ambiance is Tucker’s Italian, a takeover by chef Michael Sohocki of the enduring Tucker’s Kozy Kitchen area on East Houston Road. No stranger to the San Antonio culinary scene, Sohocki impressed early on with Restaurant Gwendolyn, whichfeatured an much more tightly targeted sourcing ethos than Isidore. Kimura Ramen and pizza-proud Il Forno adopted.
At Tucker’s, Sohocki and chef Jason Garcia have elected to give attention to house-baked focaccias, lunchtime sandwiches on home ciabatta and night specials reminiscent of pasta — take into account the full-flavored gnocchi with Italian sausage — and roast porchetta. Home sausages are already curing within the adjoining deli, a piece in progress that ought to quickly fill up extra absolutely.
In the long run-of-year rush, I by no means made it to a brand new restaurant by a longtime grasp of each fantastic and quick eating in San Antonio: Andrew Weissman’s Max’s Sister. I’m imagining that it’s going to function prominently in subsequent 12 months’s roundup.
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Associated Tales
Chef Mike Nguyen mentioned he’s closing the UTSA-area eatery to give attention to his well being.
From stunning restaurant closings to openings that elevated the native meals scene, it was a giant 12 months for eating within the Alamo Metropolis.
From elegant cocktail lounges to nook beer bars, SA has no scarcity of worthy
watering holes.
