Tiny tostadas and barbacoa buns within the shadow of posh Peacock Alley? Contemplate the not too long ago launched Anacacho Espresso & Cantina a denim-and-diamonds form of factor.
From its starting in 1909, downtown San Antonio’s St. Anthony Resort has aspired to greatness. In its storied historical past, it’s typically achieved the greatness it shot for. Nonetheless, it’s additionally been by means of a number of homeowners and durations of neglect and decline.
Starting in 2012, top-to-bottom renovation on the resort signaled a renaissance of types — one during which its meals and beverage operations performed an necessary position. The more moderen conversion of the Lucite-accented bar Hang-out into wood-paneled Anacacho Cantina & Espresso is the newest signal of progress, albeit in a form of back-to-the-future sense.
To handle this metamorphosis, the St. Anthony tapped chef Leo Davila, previously of Beard-nominated Asian-Tex Mex fusion spot Stixs & Stone. Anacacho marks the opening shot in his kitchen takeover. A last verdict should await the completion of the restaurant set to interchange the now-shuttered Rebelle — the title and opening date of which our waiter declined to disclose.
However the identical waiter was greater than prepared to discourse at size on the 21 Texas whiskies that kind the spine of the ranch-themed bar’s choices. We agreed on these most applicable for the Bourbon King Previous Customary, finally touchdown on Nonetheless Austin’s The Musician Straight Bourbon Whiskey.
With the addition of a home bitters and Demerara sugar syrup, the Nonetheless Austin made for a masterful Previous Customary because of a complicated steadiness and a lush mouth really feel. Far much less profitable was the compelling sounding however totally unrewarding Edna’s Whisper, consisting of Cognac, vermouth and an uncommon marigold cordial. There was somewhat floral bitterness from the marigold, however in any other case nothing. Crushed ice proved one of many culprits.
Happily, the waiter provided to take again something we didn’t completely love. (I hardly ever love surprising crushed ice, simply FYI.) The Thirties-classic Toreador I obtained in change was a substantial enchancment. Served up, the mix of tequila, apricot liqueur, lime and sugar syrup was deftly balanced between sweetness and energy.
Anacacho’s breakfast menu options specialty coffees and plates akin to brioche french toast with horchata mousse and an opulent $27 breakfast platter boasting eggs, sausage, papas and extra. After 11 a.m., the bar menu kicks in.
From the Small Bites part, Charred Shrimp Aguachile struck an interesting tone: what may very well be dangerous about charred shrimp with “home pickle” and cucumber? Quite a bit because it seems. Charring the shrimp does it no favors, and when you’ve disbursed with the exuberant garnishes what stays is a visible trainwreck. Chances are you’ll yearn for the basic with lime, chile, cucumber and never rather more. That and extra of the wrinkled and spectacularly good home chips.
But when the aguachile upset, the Mexican road corn mightily exceeded expectations. On this case, charring is a severe plus. The garnishes and drizzles are too many to say, although they’re all a part of a formidable presentation. Simply be sure that to rub the items of cob round in all of it.
9 choices comprise the menu’s Massive Bites, and I admit to a form of paralysis right here — not attributable to an extra of choices, however relatively to a scarcity of plates I felt compelled to order. Out of familiarity I dominated out the Large Crimson & Barbacoa Tacos that had catapulted Davila to native fame. Lo mein? No thanks. Similar goes for hen in sandwich or salad kind. I wavered concerning the $21 Anacacho Burger with Wagyu beef.
Lastly, I landed on the Bao Bun Flight and Mini Tostadas. Don’t fear, each have been good.
The weather of the odd throuple nestled into spongy bao buns have little to do with one another besides maybe accent condiments. However the crisp pork stomach model returned this overexposed merchandise to a spot worthy of its recognition. The fried hen model was truly glorious all by itself, whereas the burly barbacoa take may win over the in any other case unconvinced — it solely wanted somewhat extra slaw to mitigate its richness.
After which there are the tostadas. There’s little level in reciting all of the components, housemade chorizo amongst them, which comprise this kitchen-sink creation. They merely all come collectively atop the most effective crisply toasted corn tortillas I’ve eaten in years. Strive to not share these.
Seductive desserts have been a considerably uncelebrated facet of Davila’s Stix & Stone, however for the second you’ll should drink yours from the One for the Street after-dinner cocktail listing. Right here’s hoping that when the flagship restaurant reopens, Davila may have his approach with that facet of the menu too.
Anacacho Espresso & Cantina on the St. Anthony Resort
300 E. Travis St. (210) 227-4392, anacachocoffeeandcantina.com.
Hours: 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 6 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday
Costs for big bites: $16-$21
Greatest Bets: Mexican-Type Avenue Corn, Bao Bun Flight, Mini Tostadas
The Lowdown: Anacacho Espresso & Cantina is the eating spot on the St. Anthony Resort to be realized underneath its new meals honcho, chef Leo Davila, previously of well-reviewed Stixs & Stone. The bar menu options 21 Texas whiskeys, whereas breakfast highlights specialty coffees because the title suggests. The bar meals menu provides the likes of a formidable Mexican-Type Avenue Corn, together with a a Bao Bun Flight — every of the trio with a distinct stuffing. Davila’s domestically well-known Large Crimson & Barbacoa Tacos and a few irresistible Mini Tostadas additionally make an look. A brand new flagship eating area, changing the previous Rebelle, continues to be within the planning levels.
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This text seems in Sep 3-17, 2025.
