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A Parisian Fairy Story – San Antonio Journal

May 27, 2025
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When touring with a bit of princess, it solely is smart to remain someplace regal. With 4-year-old the Aristocracy in thoughts, I plan a visit to Paris for my granddaughter, Vivian, and her equally queenly mom, my daughter, with the thought of presenting Paris (and its environs) as if from the pages of a fairy story.

We start at Versailles as a result of what could possibly be extra majestic than an immense citadel that sprawls on leafy land, replete with fountains, mazes, swans, lakes, rowboats, huts aplenty and an total footprint that encompasses some 2,000 acres? Seemingly as big because the Louvre, maybe swankier, as soon as a searching lodge, Versailles dominates its eponymous small metropolis exterior of Paris. It lies simply far sufficient (about 45 minutes by automobile) to really feel — even at this time — like an escape to the hinterlands.

 

La Galerie des Glaces, or Corridor of Mirrors, displays the opulence within the Chateau de Versailles. | Picture by Christophe Archambault/AFP By way of Getty Photographs

Evocative, bedazzling, the place a Disney princess would possibly discover herself after being misplaced within the storm, Versailles — the property — grew to prominence within the Age of Enlightenment below the tutelage of its No. 1 advocate, Louis XIV. The glittery Solar King, recognized for his hedonism, dedication to the humanities, and abilities at mental repartee, set a regular for residing massive throughout Versailles’ heyday. Later, after all, Marie Antoinette resided right here, although she most well-liked a quieter nook of the property, albeit equally lavish.

All points of Versailles and its immensity astonish us, however we’re awed by the Corridor of Mirrors most of all. It’s well worth the lengthy hike by way of the palace, a generally daunting trek with a small youngster in tow, for Versailles’ true grand finale.

We wind our means by way of the myriad royal rooms to achieve the storied corridor, a literal inside avenue. Hung with tinkling chandeliers, big gold-rimmed mirrors and work galore, with one aspect of the room flanked by home windows to seize the solar and views of the backyard, the famend passageway teems with guests. Nonetheless, we discover our quiet nook amid the throngs to embrace the drama and to walk like heyday aristocrats. As we pose for noble selfies, pursing our lips like glitterati of yore, we see ourselves as fictional women in ready, even princesses, if only for a second.

 

The Luxembourg Palace, seat of the French Senate, is seen from the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris. Parisians and vacationers stroll and loosen up on the Luxembourg Gardens, created in 1612 on the request of Marie de Medici. | Picture by Riccardo Milani/Hans Lucas/Hans Lucas by way of AFP

Most vacationers go to Versailles only for the day. They stumble again into buses or scramble to the practice station after perusing the palace. However we’ve booked a princely suite on the newly opened Hôtel Les Lumières, a Relais & Chateaux property. Only a stone’s throw from the palace’s essential gates, this five-star resort, kitted out in two historic villas, cannily weaves a tapestry of previous and new, peppered with lavish magnificence. Staying right here extends the Versailles dream. It fulfills the promise of the palace and its choices because it deftly offers the identical temper and gravitas as Versailles itself, however on a boutique scale.

Guests like us can examine in and sleep in a mini-palace, ever enraptured by the view of Versailles from our window. Staying in a single day, we expertise Versailles on our personal phrases as a attribute French city. On the resort, we make ourselves at dwelling — like princesses. Vivian thumbs by way of youngsters’s books within the resort’s alluring library room, whereas we sip Champagne. We learn aloud collectively in French and English. Later, on the resort’s daytime restaurant and tea room, La Galerie des Lumières (the Gallery of Lights), we nibble macarons by well-known pastry maker Pierre Hermes in a room that appears like our very personal Corridor of Mirrors. (The truth is, the restaurant was designed to imitate the unique.) Our desk beside the panoramic home windows overlooks the palace’s golden gates. Suffice it to say, we really feel like the Aristocracy from the pages of a storybook, gazing upon our realm.

 

The Louvre museum at nightfall in Paris in 2024. | Picture by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Photographs

Again in Paris, we alter gears, leaving our nation palace for the heart-quickening buzz of metropolis life. We select the intimate, French-owned Resort Edouard VII for its stylish design, location simply steps from the Opera Garnier and its warm-hearted, personable service.

I’m significantly grateful for the resort’s head concierge, Renaud Cauvin, a fount of native information and a miracle employee who finds us impossible-to-procure reservations at websites such because the newly reopened Notre Dame Cathedral. Resort Edouard VII matches into our regal theme for a lot of causes, none the least being that the villa-like resort as soon as was the Parisian dwelling of Edward VII, King of England, a passionate Francophile and infamous dandy. It additionally occurs to lie simply beside Pierre Hermé Paris, the world’s most exalted pastry chef’s store. Thought-about the king of sweets, he’s the pâtissier accountable for a similar beautiful macarons we consumed at Hôtel Les Lumières, which one way or the other brings our queenly fairy story full circle at this level of our journey. For the last word indulgence at Resort Edouard VII, e book a nook suite, the place balconies float over Avenue de l’Opéra to supply views of the Beaux-Arts, Faberge Egg-like, Paris Opera Garnier. Adorned artfully, all rooms and suites on the resort make daring, however elegant, design statements with textures of silk, velvet and cashmere aplenty.

 

The Notre Dame Cathedral is one in all France’s most iconic monuments and lately reopened after a hearth in 2019. | Picture by Riccardo Milani/Hans Lucas/Hans Lucas by way of AFP

Supremely situated on the Proper Financial institution, the haute couture-intoned haven has a super place: strolling distance to just about all of Paris’ high websites from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. We weave in grownup actions with kid-friendly diversions. However Vivian proclaims by royal decree a want that may’t be denied. She calls for we spend parts of every day at kid-friendly Luxembourg Gardens, a 58-acre park on the Left Financial institution that dates again centuries. With a classic carousel, a intelligent up to date playground, eating places, a pond the place youngsters (and children at coronary heart) can sail toy boats, old-school swings, tennis courts and every day puppet reveals, amongst different amusements, the gardens present the perfect counterbalance to treks by way of extra grownup mornings at museums.

Because the saying goes: “Paris isn’t a nasty concept,” particularly when touring with a tiny princess.

Hôtel Les Lumières

The Resorts

Versailles

Keep: Hôtel Les Lumières

Eat: Don’t miss the resort’s signature restaurant La Desk des Lumieres (The Desk of Lights) for a plant-based, gastronomic journey by Chef Erwan Le Thomas.

For traditional French bistro delicacies, attempt Le Limousin, a brief stroll from the palace and the resort.

Do: Go to Versailles, but additionally take time to benefit from the free, public park, which affords a slew of actions. Lease a motorcycle and pedal within the park. Or select from a slew of actions organized by the stellar concierge group, together with a horse-drawn carriage experience or horseback using in Versailles’ gardens, non-public yoga, classic automobile rental, museum excursions, artwork lessons and extra.

Paris

Keep: Resort Edouard VII

Eat: Le Mesturet, a comfortable cafe with basic dishes comparable to French Onion Soup, escargots and Beef Bourguignon, and Le Grand Colbert, a historic brasserie that includes plates from frog legs to foie gras.

Do: Apart from Jardin du Luxembourg, contemplate a cruise on the Seine (youngsters love the boats) and the Choco Museum, the place youngsters study chocolate and may make their very own. Have your portraits painted in Montmartre on the artist brimming essential sq., Place du Tertre.

 



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